Time Out London - Eating & Drinking Awards 2003
May 14-21 2003WINNER RED FORT
Brass artefacts in alcoves and marigolds floating in urns create a dramatic backdrop for authentic north Indian cooking at this luxurious Soho restaurant. Dotted around are tiny figurines designed to promote good vibes. But the real idol is chef Mohammed Rais - he's an old time descended from a long line of royal chefs, who now cook for business moguls rather than maharajas. Rais recreates refined spice blends from the royal kitchens of Awadh - the important culinary and historical region around Lucknow. Dried rose petals crumbled with ground sweet spices, and lemony cardamoms grazed with pounded mace are salt-and-pepper seasonings at this kitchen. If fiery strength is your thing, you'd best look elsewhere - this kind of cooking has earned its fame from judicious spicing. Highlights on the menu include a divine seafood biryani, scented with saffron and partially cooked in the steam rising from rice as it cooks inside a sealed clay pot.
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